03/03/2008 You can’t beat a city break for hitting the shops and all the usual urban thrills and spills. But sometimes you might want to kick back and chill out somewhere more intimate. Yes? You do? In which case, say pah to Paris and head for the craic in Krakow. Words: Clark Turner
IT’S A FACT
According to legend a dragon lived underneath the castle. The beast is no more but its lair can still be visted.
Helena Rubenstein, born in the old Kazimierz Jewish quarter, went on to found a global cosmetic empire.
Karol Wojyla studied in the city before graduating to Archbishop of Krakow. He eventually became Pope John Paul II, the first Polish Pope.
TONGUE TIED
Beer – Piwo
Your eyes are like the moon - Twoje oczy są jak dwa księżyce
How about breakfast? - Co powiesz na śniadanie?
Will you marry me? - Wyjdziesz za mnie?
CHECK THIS OUT
Small in size, yet huge in terms of historical importance, no Polish city is quite as European as Krakow. The main Rynek market square could have been lifted from Venice, while its bustling medieval streets echo those of Paris. Cheap bars have made the city a top destination for stag and hen parties but it’s easy to lose them by heading from the main fray.
A good place to start and get your bearings is the Wawel Castle, sitting proudly on a hill overlooking the city. For six centuries Wawel was home to all manner of kings and queens in what was the capital of the country, until King Sigiusmund upped sticks and moved the court to Warsaw in 1609.
It’s a Renaissance treasure trove, but look out for the room whose ceiling is filled with wooden heads – scarily bizarre. The chapel is also worth a visit. Look out for the bones of the “strange beast” suspended over the entrance. Popular myth has it that when they fall it will signal the end of the world. (http://www,wawel.krakow.pl)
A short walk from the castle is the Rynek main square. A host of cafes offer the best seat in town from which to watch the world go by… or plot revolution. Lenin did just that at U Noworola under the arches of the Cloth Hall. It’s a fabulously grand place - a throwback to the turn of the last century - and serves a mean coffee and cake.
The Cloth Hall itself is full of tourist tat, trinkets and souvenir beer mugs. You have been warned. But Rynek is worth a visit for the famous bugler. On the hour and every day, from St Mary’s Basilica, the bugler plays a ceremonial tune - only to be cut off mid-way – recalling an event in 1241 when a bugler, warning of an approaching Tartar attack, was shot in the throat by an arrow.
To bring things bang up to date, Bunkier Sztuki, is a stone’s throw away and plays host to some of the best and contemporary art on the scene. (http://www.bunkier.pl)
The old Kazimierz Jewish quarter is a must see. Here Hassidic Jews, in their traditional garb, rub shoulders with Krakow’s hip contingent whilst restaurants serve up traditional dishes to the sound of klezmer music.
Troubled times befell the area though, with the Holocaust. The Schindler Factory, as featured in Stephen Spielberg’s film ‘Schindler’s List’, still stands, and there are constant reminders that Auschwitz is only 50 miles away. It’s possible to visit the extermination camp where more then 100,000 Poles, gypsies, gays, and Russian prisoners, were gassed in a day, but even after more than 60 year’s it’s a harrowing place. (www.auschwitz.org.pl)
A SALTY TREAT
An old salt mine doesn’t sound like a must see - but trust us - it is! The Wielicka mine, a 30 minute bus ride from Krakow city centre, is home to a fantastical underground world. As well as mining salt for everyday jobs, like roads, the miners also found time to express their artistic talents. A two-hour tour takes in the highlights of more then 200 miles of corridors, including towering statues and the jawdroppingly impressive Chapel of St Kinga. Everything is amazingly made of rock salt; from the statue of Christ, to the altar and chandeliers. Mind-blowing stuff! (www.kopalnia.pl).
SWEATBOXES
Avoid the tourist traps of Rynek square and head to the Kazimierz quarter for some of the hippest bars in town. Alchemia on Powy square is the height of all things bohemian, lit by dripping candles and decorated with old black and white portraits.
Head to Prozak as the night wears on, as the bar/club is a cult favourite in the city.
Klub 7 on Filipa street is the gay hub of Krakow. The basement club has the air of a school disco but the punters ensure it remains attitude free.
IT’S A DATE
May – The annual Soup Festival in Plac Nowy Square is a festival and it’s all about celebrating soup. Genius.
June – The Grand Dragon Parade and Wawel Dragon Festival is all the excuse you need to party.
September – The Dachshund Parade, we kid you not, is usually held on the second Sunday of the month. A must for doggy lovers.
GET AWAY AND STAY
Low-cost airline Centralwings flies direct to Krakow from London Gatwick, Birmingham and Manchester. For bookings and more information visit www.centralwings.com
The Hotel Poleski offers contemporary glamour with spectacular views of the Wawel Hill and castle, but with only three-stars, charges rates that won’t break the bank balance. For the low-down and bookings visit www.hotelpoleski.pl
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